When using Flash it is best to use it in lower light areas. As a general rule, light meters are only necessary for film photographers using studio flash. In photography, flash synchronization or flash sync is the synchronizing the firing of a photographic flash with the opening of the shutter admitting light to photographic film or electronic image sensor. E-TTL mode, also known as E-TTL autoflash, is the mode where the camera uses information obtained through the lens (“TTL”) to calculate how much light the flash needs to emit for the appropriate brightness. You cannot use a faster shutter speed than the sync speed with flash or you’ll get a partial blackout of the image. Photographers us flash and use diffusers to soften or spread the harsh, concentrated light that bursts out of the flash. A slave in photographs is when the flash emits a secondary flash inside the diffuser. If your picture comes out too bright or dark you can adjust the aperture on your camera.

Light Sources: Professional studio light sources generally fall into one of two categories: you can get a kit with a flash head and a power pack, or you can get a monolight kit. A head and power pack kit consists of the flash head and a small power pack that acts as the generator that supplies energy to the flash head The flash head contains flash tubes that emit light once supplied with high voltage. Monolights, on the other hand, are compact substitutes for a power pack/flash head combinations. If you’re shooting outdoors or with complicated modifier setups, you are going to need a lot of power to overcome the sun or the light loss caused by the modifiers.

Light Modifiers: The most common types of light modifers are umbrellas and softboxes. Reflecting umbrellas produce a diffused and soft light due to the larger size of the reflecting surface. They are mounted in such a way that the strobe light is actually facing away from the subject or model. Light flies from the strobe head hitting the inside of the umbrella and then bounces back towards the subject. The difference between reflecting umbrellas and softboxes is that the spread of light with a softbox is more contained. With an umbrella on the other hand, light can spill beyond the boundaries of the reflective surface affecting the amount of light getting back to the subject. Spilled light can also hit walls and ceilings indoors causing it to reflect and bounce all over the place. An umbrella simply isn’t as controllable as a softbox.

Grips and Stands: Stands and grips are used to support your light sources, strobes, and even light modifiers or backdrops. There are two main types of light stands: lightweight stands and C-stands which are more heavy duty. Both types come in varying sizes, lengths, and prices. Heights can usually be adjusted. Sandbags can also be attached to weight the stand and better stabilize your lights. You can get a good lightweight stand for around 70 bucks.

Photography is an excellent hobby because it’s a lot of fun, and you can start at any age. You are not pressured or challenged by anyone. Your level doesn’t matter. In photography, you always keep learning. One day you can learn about composition. The day after, you discover the importance of lighting. Perfecting the use of your camera is a never-ending process. You’ll make new friends. Photography helps you connect with like-minded people. You can join photography groups and share your experiences, go out and take photos together, challenge and learn from each other.

Photography makes you explore the world around you and gives you an excuse to go out, to travel more, to learn and experiment. Having new experiences and finding new places to visit with your family and friends. It’s an important hobby because it helps you stay present. It helps you find inspiration to experience locations and moments from different perspectives. You can sell your photos and start making money with your pictures. After discovering the art of photography and perfecting your skills, there are many ways to make money with photography.

‘HDR’ stands for ‘High Dynamic Range’. The term originates in photography, and refers to a technique to heighten a picture’s dynamic range, the contrast levels between the brightest whites and the darkest blacks